How to Craft Doll Furniture by Klenke

Dedication

"I dedicate this book to all Children--may it bring to them many hours of happiness in their world of play."

"No this is not real furniture, nor a real room. It looks inviting for
dolly, does it not?" Klenke

Foreword

       Although this book is intended primarily for use in the grammar grades of schools, it is hoped that many older children and parents too, will find much interest and pleasure in making these models and that much valuable information will be found within its covers.

       Designs of furniture for the living room, hall, dining room, bedrooms and kitchen are included in this complete set of doll house furniture. The entire group has been drawn to scale, giving to each article the correct proportions and the correct relation to the other articles shown. Many of these pieces are simplified models, made to a smaller scale of furniture the author has designed and constructed in full size.

       The simplest type of construction has been shown in each instance and only a few of the commonly used and inexpensive tools, equipment and lumber are required to carry on this work.

       To make sure that each article is practical and substantially constructed and to enable him to bring out in the directions any and all special points that should be emphasized, the author has himself made each of the articles shown in this book.

       By making these pieces the child will not only have the opportunity of acquiring manual skill but he will become familiar with the correct proportions, graceful lines and good designs found in better furniture.

       The finished pieces were photographed by the author in miniature rooms especially constructed for this purpose, in order to give to this Doll's Furniture, the realistic feeling and at the same time, to show pleasing grouping of furniture as used in our American homes of today. A careful study of these pictures will help the child to more fully understand what the completed article is to look like.

       In most instances full size patterns have been included, to simplify matters, and the numbers needed of each piece are clearly indicated.

                                                                                                                                    William W. Klenke

List of Plates and Plans:

1. Chairs - Side, Arm and Rocker, Over-Stuffed Side Chair and Sofa
2. Dining Room Table and Sideboard
3. Davenport Table; Console Table; End Table
4. Governor Winthrop Secretary
5. Baby Grand Piano
6. Chest of Drawers; Kitchen Table and Cabinet
7. Grandfather's Clock; Standing Book Shelves; Chippendale Mirror
8. Dresser
9. Cradle; Priscilla Sewing Cabinet; Piano Bench
10. Double Bed; Bedside Table; Foot Stool

How to Proceed:

       Since it takes so little wood to make any of the pieces shown in this book, it will be advisable to use only 3 ply laminated bass wood of about the thicknesses shown on the drawings, in order to give the added and much needed strength to some of the delicate outlines. This material cuts very easily, holds glue well (on any edges) and does not split under ordinary conditions when being nailed. Being laminated, little or no attentions need be given to the directions of the grain when transferring the patterns to the wood (except when extra strength is required). Laminated bass wood panels can be purchased from many local hardware and lumber dealers ad by mail from leading plywood and veneer firms throughout the country, at nominal cost. There is no waste when using this material--I strongly recommend it for the work.

How to make a drawer and assemble it.

Laying Out the Work:

       In most instances, full size patterns have been given. Make tracings from these on transparent paper such as draftsmen use; cut these patterns out with scissors, then transfer them to a thin cardboard (the thickness of a recycled cereal box) and again cut them out so as to make permanent patterns. If you can obtain a very heavy tracing paper, this last pattern can be eliminated. Transfer this patterns to the wood by drawing around the edges with a sharp soft lead pencil, about a No. 2 or B grade. To avoid slipping of the pattern, hold it in place with a few pins or thumb tacks.

       The thickness of material and the number of pieces required of each kind, are carefully marked on the drawing. In a few instances, where the pieces to be cut are of simple outline (such as a rectangle), no pattern will be given. Use the ordinary common woodworking tools for cutting our the making this miniature furniture. Many of the pieces can be cut out with a little hand fret saw. All cutting should be done from the top surface. Where tow or more pieces of one kind are desired, this can easily and quickly be accomplished by nailing the pieces together with small brads and cutting them at one time. When two pieces of the same pattern are to be cut, be sure to make a right and left piece; in other words, make certain to turn the pattern over when laying out one of the pieces.

Sawing Out:

       The thin pieces can easily and quickly be cut to shape with a hand fret saw or better still, by using an electric power driven jig saw. These little machines are very efficient, inexpensive and are as easy to operate as an ordinary sewing machine. There is very little danger of a child injuring himself, since these little machines are built with every improvement and safety device. Simple complete directions on how to operate the jig saw come with each machine.

       When the hand saw is used, the saw table should be securely fastened in a vise or screwed to a table or bench. The height of the table should be such as to permit the child to work conveniently in a standing position, with the top of the table about six inches below the child's chin.

       Hold the saw perpendicular--that is, square to the table; the teeth of the saw must face downward, handle at the bottom. Now start  to saw, working the frame up and down and never stop working up and down when making a turn, otherwise, the blade will stick and break. To cut inside designs, first bore a small hole; take the blade partly from the frame and then insert the blade through the wood and fasten it in the frame again. Do not use a blade that is too coarse as it will then be difficult to cut sharp corners. On the other hand, too fine a blade will cut too slowly and break easily. The sawing is done in the open part of the saw table; move the wood to that place.

       A simple way to remove the blade, is to take the frame in the left hand and hold the blade with the right; now gently press the frame against a bench or table and the blade can easily be taken out or a new one inserted.

Assembly:

       Glue and nail the various pieces together, using a prepared liquid glue or better still, a hot glue. Care must be exercised not to split the thin pieces when nailing. Wherever the drawing calls for gluing a thin piece to a heavier piece, it will be best to first glue a piece somewhat thicker than required to the other pieces wand when the glue has set, plant the top piece to the desired thickness. It will be well to hold such pieces together under pressure. In many instances, it will be advisable to do all gluing first; then when the glue has set, drive in a few brads where needed, for extra strength. However, if laminated wood is used and good tight fitting joints are made, this nailing will not be necessary in most cases, as a good glued joint will hold stronger then the wood itself.

       After all parts have been put together, clean off the excess glue; when when the glue has set, sandpaper smooth with a No. 0 or No. 00 sandpaper. Small smooth cutting files will help to trim up many of the intricate curved parts.

Finishing:

       Stain the furniture with an oil stain in the color you desire, to imitate mahogany or it can be painted or finished with lacquer or colored shellac. The staining operation can be simplified by dipping the entire piece in a can containing the stain; then wipe off all surplus stain with a rag. After staining apply a coat or two of then shellac to the job, rubbing down each coat lightly when dry, with No. 00 sandpaper or steel wool.

Miscellaneous: 

       A few of the chairs are covered with upholstery; this can easily be done by cutting out a piece of cardboard to the proper shape, use cotton for padding to obtain the correct form and any light weight material for covering. Glue it in place on the under side of the cardboard which has been covered with the material. Ask a parent to aid you when making the cushions, mattress, etc., so that you may have a neat job.

       When making chests of drawers, it will be well to follow the method shown on plate page 8, that is using blocks of scrap wood as fillers to keep the partitions dividing the drawers parallel, while gluing.

       The drawers are constructed of thin cardboard or heavy detail drawing paper as shown.

       Use a very then glass or heavy plastic when needed.

       In place of real metal hinges, you can use a canvas or heavy cloth, which is glued in position 1/4 inch No. 1 Round head screws, either brass or blued are used for door and drawer knobs.

How to choose and use the right jig saw.