Mustard

Mustard seeds (top left) may be ground
(top right) to make different kinds of
mustard. These four mustards are: English
mustard with turmeric coloring (centre
left), a Bavarian sweet mustard (centre
 right), a Dijon mustard (lower left), and a
coarse French mustard made mainly
from black mustard seeds (lower right).

       What would a hamburger or hotdog be without mustard! The use of mustard is not new. It goes back through many centuries. The mustard plant is mentioned in the Bible and also in early Greek and Roman writings.
       There are two kinds of mustard plants, black mustard and white mustard. They are very much alike, but the black is more common than the white. Commercial mustard is made from the ripe seeds. The stronger, more pungent black mustard is preferred in Europe, while white mustard is popular in England. The familiar mustard of our hotdog stands is made from equal amounts of black and white mustard, salt, vinegar, and certain other aromatics.
       The black-mustard plant, which is native to Eurasia, is grown in almost all countries. It is found throughout most of Europe, except the northern part, and in northern Africa, Asia Minor, the West Indies, southern Siberia, China, and the United States.
       In Europe and Asia black mustard is often cultivated for its young leaves, which are used as a flavoring in salads. It is especially cultivated in England, Germany, Holland, and Italy. The best mustard comes from the Trieste area in Italy. In our own country black mustard is found just about everywhere‚ in dooryards, along ditches and roadsides, and in neglected gardens and waste places. It is considered a weed in many places, but in California, Kentucky, and Montana it is planted as a crop.
       The black-mustard plant may grow as high as twelve feet, but usually it is only two and one-half to four feet high. Its seeds, which are dark brown on the outside and yellow inside, are borne within a fruit that is less than one inch long. Black mustard is very aromatic and contains an oil that is very powerful and dangerous to handle because it blisters the skin easily and is irritating to the eyes and the membranes of the nose.
       Mustard has been used in several curious ways. In bygone times it was used to stop toothaches, to deaden the pain of having one's hair pulled, and to take away the black-and-blue marks of bruises. And in Shakespeare's time many people felt that their traditional meal of pancakes on Shrove Tuesday was not complete if the pancakes had no mustard on them. In the past some people even liked to put mustard on their apple pie!
       Ground mustard as we know it was first prepared in Durham, England, in 1720 by a lady named Mrs. Clements. She used the seeds of the wild mustard that grew plentifully in that area. To this day the manufacture of commercial mustard is an important industry in that town. For ground mustard, the outer husk is removed from the seeds. After the seeds are passed between rollers and crushed, they are reduced to an even finer powder in a mortar. In France the husks are not removed, and so French mustard is darker and more pungent because the husks contain the biting qualities of the plant in large quantities. In the United States, mustard that is made by grinding to a smooth paste the entire seeds of black and white mustard with vinegar and other ingredients forms the bulk of the commercial product, consumption of which is surprisingly large.
       Mustard is very popular for flavoring pickles, sardines, and salad dressings. It is used not only as a food flavoring but also in medicines because of its stimulating properties. Most people are familiar with the use of mustard plasters and mustard foot-baths. Mustard aids digestion and, when mixed with warm water, mustard is an efficient remedy in case of poisoning.

• How to make your own mustard, kitchen 101
• The History of French's Mustard