Modern Egg Incubator. |
The natural method of incubating or hatching eggs is by hens. Hens have the natural instinct of perpetuating their species, and after laying for a time they desire to raise a brood of their kind. Before breed specialization became an art and science, the hen laid a number of eggs and then was ready to sit and hatch them. But this system meant few eggs and many mothers. By breeding and selection the egg-laying habit has been fostered, and the egg-hatching instinct lessened. As a consequence some breeds of fowls have been developed in which the mother desire has been largely eliminated. This is an advantage where hens are raised largely for eggs, where only a few chicks are raised each year, hatching by hens is a popular custom; on farms it is the most common.
When it is necessary to hatch on a large scale and as rapidly and as economically as possible, the system is very different. To realize good profits recourse must be had to an incubator. The incubator is simply a machine or artificial 'hen' that does for the eggs what nature demands. With eggs well fertilized a good hen will produce good chickens. A good machine well managed will give the same and even better results, but more care and attention will be required for machine-hatched than hen-hatched chicks. A great deal depends upon the incubator used. The closer it approaches nature in its work the better.
Without proper and well-regulated heat there could be no incubation of the eggs. Top heat is essential; otherwise, rising from the bottom, it would evaporate the moisture from the eggs too quickly. Heat must therefore start not at the bottom of the machine under the eggs, but at the top over them. This heat must be stable. When a hen is brooding her temperature is about 104 degrees. The successful incubator must be capable of developing a top heat of 104 degrees to the eggs and keep it steadily at that point. While it is true that eggs under a hen vary in temperature according to position, they are changed in the nest from time to time by the hen, as every farm boy knows, thereby, on an average, ranging from 102 to 103 degrees. Each machine must also possess sufficient ventilation. Fresh air is a perpetual necessity. Moisture is essential in successful incubation, but a saturated atmosphere is not wanted. The idea is to replace what has been evaporated through the machine.
Every reputable maker of incubators sends out instructions with his machine, and the purchaser should follow these implicitly. If he does not, he is running a risk. The instructions sent out with any machine are the result of experience with that particular make, and as the manufacturer's interest lies in obtaining satisfactory hatching, so the directions are to that end and should be valued.
The incubator should be placed in a sunless room, or any place where the temperature is equable day and night, or fairly so. This should be airy, but sheltered from currents of air. Thus a cellar, an unused room, or a stable, is satisfactory. Where the raising of poultry is carried on on a large scale, a special incubator cellar or room is built. What- ever place is selected, it should not be damp or used as a dumping ground of decaying vegetables or filth. The whole secret of incubation is to maintain around well-fertilized eggs an even temperature and a regular circulation of sufficient fresh air. The placing of the incubator in a well-protected place has much to do with a successful hatch.
Whether the hen or the incubator is used, choose the right kind of eggs. Not only must eggs be fresh, but they must contain all the elements and germs that go toward making good, strong chicks. Unless they are carefully selected from stock birds, kept in such a manner as to insure a certain amount of animal vitality, they cannot turn out strong, lusty chicks. Always get eggs from the best sources and use eggs that are from pure-bred and selected strains.
Before filling the incubator after purchase or at the beginning of a season, try it out first to see if it runs properly and maintains a stable heat.
Punctuality more than science is required for cooling and turning the eggs. The turning should be done regularly twice a day, from the third to the eighteenth day, after which the eggs should not be turned. The cooling of the eggs requires practice. At first it is done simultaneously with the turning, but as the hatch progresses the amount of cooling must be increased. After the seventh day, at one turning each day, the eggs are removed from the machine until they become cool to the touch. The time required for cooling will vary with the temperature of the room and the development of the embryos. The larger the embryos in the eggs the longer the heat is retained. Incubator eggs are not cooled after the eighteenth day.
When the eggs have been hatching seven days they should be tested. The testing of eggs is very easy, and after a little experience one should experience no difficulty in distinguishing the good from the bad. The proper way to tell a fertile egg is to take it between the thumb and forefinger and hold it before a strong light. If it is perfectly clear within, it is not fertile; if, on the contrary a little black speck with red lines is seen to float inside of it, looking more or less like a spider in its web, it is certain to be fertile. The same examination should be made on the fifteenth day. The infertile eggs should be removed and kept to feed the chicks later.
After the eighteenth day the machine is closed and not disturbed. While the eggs are hatching the temperature of the machine may go as high as 105, or even 107 degrees; this is caused by the animal heat given off by the chicks, and no attempt should be made at all to lower the temperature if the machine has been running properly just previous to the time of hatching.
As the chicks hatch they find their way into the nursery space or drawer of the incubator, which provides them all they need for 36 to 48 hours. They continue the absorption of the yolk, which serves as food, and find that the warmth of 95 to 98 degrees is pleasant and agreeable. This slightly lower temperature somewhat hardens their bodies and prepares them for the brooder temperature.
The newly hatched chicks should not be fed or watered in the incubator. About 24 hours before using the brooder let it be heated, making sure of its being dry and warm. The brooder lamp is now adjusted so as to get an even temperature of 95 degrees in the hover-covered space of the brooder. This temperature will be raised two or degrees after the chicks are placed in their new quarters. During the first week the temperature is maintained at 96 to 98 degrees ; after that time it is gradually lowered to 90 degrees at the end of two weeks. From now on a temperature of 75 degrees in the hover is sufficient.
The first meal is due after an hour or two in the brooder. Nothing is better than a mixture of stale bread, rolled oats and infertile eggs from the incubator. Use for the mixture one-third stale bread, one-third rolled oats or oatmeal, and one-third hard-boiled eggs, shells and all, stirred up in milk. A sprinkle of chick-size grit or sharp, clean sand on the nursery food is advisable. Feed five to six times a day, from two to three hours apart. Give what the chicks will eat up clean in a period of 15 to 20 minutes. See that the backward ones are not crowded aside. Pure, clean water must be kept before the chicks; if the weather is cold, use lukewarm water. Drinking fountains are preferable to shallow pans because they prevent the chicks from getting wet.
After a couple of days the nursery food may be dropped for a less expensive ration. Many chick feeds are now on the market and these are excellent. Home-made mixtures may be secured by using ground wheat, ground oats, or barley and ground corn, and bran. Some green food is desirable. If green clover, alfalfa or grass is not available, steamed alfalfa meal, with an equal amount by bulk of bran and middlings, serves as an excellent substitute. The grain and other seeds comprising the chick feeds may be thrown into finely cut grass, hay or clover, or other loose material after the chicks are five or six days old, so they may get the fun and exercise of scratching it out.
By the time the chicks are seven or eight days old they should be allowed to run out of doors, especially on clear days, even if it is cold and raw. It is important that they be taught to go to their hover, however, before they get chilled. They soon learn to go to the heat when they need it. Beginning with the second week meat scrap and charcoal ought to be added to the food. Chicks a week old crave both, the first for its muscle and ash materials, and the second for its aid in digestion. Charcoal prevents sour crop and bowel trouble.
A shallow tray containing a mixture of high-grade meat scrap, bran and charcoal should be in easy access of all the chicks. From the second to the sixth week this manner of feeding will yield healthy and vigorous stock, after which time other requirements having been met, little trouble should arise.
If chicks are raised by hens, dust the mother hen thoroughly and often to destroy lice and mites, examine the chicks frequently for head lice, and if any are present touch the head with kerosene, and feed as outlined above for brooder chicks. When the chicks are a week old give the hen her liberty for part of the day. As she moves about some food will be secured, possibly bugs, insects and worms. There is nothing like a sensible mother hen to look after the wants of her young. She will scratch faithfully and find just the kind of grit, small seeds and grass conducive to the proper development of the baby birds, with good foraging ground, supplemented with grain or mash at the coop and a bit of charcoal and animal meal, it is pleasing to see how bright and smart the young chicks become, and how they grow day by day.
Whether reared by hens or by incubator and brooder, final success will be due in no small degree to cleanliness, pure food and clean water. Filth in coop or brooder is a sure road to trouble; it invites disease germs and insects, and both are disastrous to young chicks. If brooder chicks are fed in deep litter, a custom gradually extending, the litter should be removed at least once a week. The hover space should be kept clean at all times and disinfectants used fully to keep away germs and other poultry pests. In feeding, make sure, first to last, that no musty grain or sour food is given. Musty grain causes bowel disorders, and sour food diarrhea. Food and water should be kept scrupulously clean and pure.
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