DIY Old-Fashioned Miniature Spool Beds

Our finished spool beds ready for the bookcase dollhouse.
Personally, I think they are charming...

       Spool dollhouse furniture is very vintage indeed. It was most popular when threads were commonly wrapped, packaged and sold to ordinary folk who made their own clothes, quilted etc... 

       So little people have been recycling unwanted trash to outfit their dollhouses forever, it seems. But now, you have to purchase wooden spools to return to the craft; it is not expensive if you are patient enough to acquire these wooden parts through second-hand vendors. 

Supply List: 

• a variety of wooden spools small, medium and large
• a wooden platform length cut to fit your sleeping doll
• paint (spray acrylic or acrylic in a tube)
• wood glue
• clear varnish or Mod Podge
• scrap fabrics and notions for the bedding

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. You will need to collect quite a few spools, smaller ones, for this craft. 
2. Cut a thin wooden platform for the mattress of the bed to lay on. Make sure to measure the platform to fit the height of your doll. You can see that I planned the larger of the two doll beds to fit a standard size six inch dollhouse doll below. The shorter spool bed was designed for a child doll.
3. You may glue the spools to stand upright or plan to attach them by stringing a long wire through the spool holes and bending it around the spool bedposts. In the end I decided to leave the bedrails off.
4. Attach the spools using wood glue and let the glue dry overnight. 
5. Use acrylic paints or enamel paint alternatively to finish the spool beds.
6. Because doll beds like these were popular before the world wars and during, I chose to sew very old-fashioned bedding from lace trims and doilies.

Left, I'm thinking about the arrangement of spools for me dollhouse beds. Center, wooden spools
 may be found at resale or purchased online or maybe you could find them in your grandmother's
sewing kit. Right, the platform for your doll's mattress needs to be long enough to accommodate
it's height and wide enough so that he or she won't fall out of bed at night!

Left, I made two beds in different sizes from wooden spools. These stack neatly together for
storage purposes. Center, see the felt bedding with attached bed pillows. Right, the lace dusters 
are sewn directly onto the mattresses so that these won't be lost during play or storage.

Left, old lace trims were collected at estate sales and used to craft vintage looking bedding.
Center, use darker colored silks beneath the lace trim to emphasize the decorative designs.
Right, the old-fashioned dollhouse beds are finished for our bookcase dollhouse.

How to make a matchbox bed for a mouse...

        Here are the craft instructions for the matchbox mouse bed displayed in Rosebud Cottage. It is very easy to make and every little mouse doll needs a cozy place to sleep. The matchbox is a larger size than most; it ordinarily holds 5000 wooden matches. Although our mouse came with a slipcase bed of her own, it was a little too large for her new home, so we made her a new bed to fit just right into her art studio...

Beatrix mouse posed in her matchbox bed
made especially for her very own mouse
house!

Supply List:

• one large matchbox empty
• one acorn for a pillow
• scrap fabric for the bedding
• paper covered wire, green like a vine
• button for trim
• small amount of batting
• decorative scrapbook paper
• white school glue
• hot glue gun and glue

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. For this little mouse bed, you will only need to use the 'drawer' part of the large matchbox. So remove this and cover all of it's parts with a decorative paper, layering Mod Podge on top to give the bed a durable surface. 
2. Next, cover the wire with white glue and green paper if it is not already in this state prior to working with it.
3. Now bend the wire into a headboard for the bed. You can make any design you like or copy the one shown in the photos below. Use more wire to secure connections between the bent areas. These are obvious in the pictures because they are wrapped with brown wire.
4. Paint the wire head board as you go if it pleases you. This one has been left green to look like a vine.
5. Bend approximately 1/2 inch of the wire frame to attach just beneath the edge of the bed and hot glue the headboard onto the back and bottom of the matchbox to hold everything in place.
6. Sew and stuff a little pillow for your doll mouse to rest her head on. 
7. Cut a fabric scrap blanket to keep her warm at night and collect a small acorn to display as a 'natural' sort of pillow.
   

Left, side view of Beatrix's matchbox bed. She has an acorn for a decorative pillow. Right, the 
view of her 'vine-like' headboard from behind.

More Mouse Fun:

• Go here to see our directions for sewing a little sock mouse to play with.
• Read the Church Mouse Companion for Fun!
• Learn how to turn your acorns into dolls too!
  

How to Craft a Doll Lap Desk

       This lab desk sure comes in handy when your doll is too sleepy to sit at a desk and do her school homework. However, she may just doze-off faster if she studies in bed! 
       The comfortable cushion  is made with a kitchen sponge and it's cheerful, sturdy desktop may be covered in your favorite scrapbook paper designs.

Left the top of our 18" doll's lap desk. I used a multi-striped paper for our version.
Right, the bottom of the lap desk, a sponge covered in orange felt.

 Supply List:

• scrap cardboard
• decorative scrapbook paper
• white school glue
• hot glue gun and hot glue
• new kitchen sponge
• one square of felt
• dental floss

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1.  Purchase a new, clean kitchen sponge from a Dollar store before drafting a pattern for this craft. Trace around the sponge on paper so that you know exactly how large to make the lap desk top.
2. The desk top should extend approximately 1/4 inch over the sponge after this has been covered with felt. Give this desk top rounded corners and a handle. 
3. Cut out your pattern and trace it onto a stiff piece of cardboard. 
4. Cut out the cardboard and decoupage over both sides using white school glue and decorative paper.
5. Cover the sponge entirely with the felt, tacking it down on the backside with hot glue. This is the side of the sponge that will never be seen because the desk will be glued to it, so it's o.k. if it is not perfectly neat.
6. Hot glue the desk top to the glued side of the sponge to cover the glue work.

Left, this lap desk is made with one new sponge and a cardboard desk top with a cut handle.
Center and right, fronts and backs of different versions of our doll's lap desks. They use these
to study with in bed. Your doll can also work with a laptop computer on top of these comfy desks.

Dressing-Table or "Vanity" Table Ideas for A Dollhouse

Left, for a little girl's (doll) room: wreath and ribbon design.
 Right, designed for a small room. The roses are stenciled.

       Every "doll in dollville" is fond of dainty and artistic equipments, not only for her personal and home adornment, but in the little every-day appointments of her dressing-table, as well; and that this should be is but the evidence of a refined and cultivated nature, which seeks to surround itself, even in the privacy of dollhouse-life, with all that is dainty and choice, as far as the means will allow. Should the pocket-book be to a degree unlimited, the beautiful objects illustrated above give a limited idea of the many elegant, rich and artistic articles to be found in the stores devoted to such productions. What could be prettier in a daintily-decorated chamber than the richly-draped toilet-table, with its glitter and sparkle of silver and crystal appointments - its air of refinement and luxury so dear to the heart of every true feminine dolly?

Left, for a Colonial room: with chintz draperies.
Right, white scrim draperies with stenciled borders.

A good use for an antique doll mirror
and old dollhouse table.

 

       Now, while this sketch illustrates so pleasingly the luxurious and expensive side of this interesting question, there is still another view which may interest many whose desire for the beautiful, while it is restrained in a great measure by a limited purse, is just as strong and eager to seek the means to satisfy it. That daintiness and refinement may be expressed in the simple every-day appointments of a modest home is unquestionably true. A little time and judgment spent in selecting the necessary fittings of the toilet-table of the plainer sort will reward the buyer to the fullest extent, as in these grades there is great variety and wide range of price.
       To be sure, the glass is not cut crystal, neither is the finish of solid silver, but pressed glass comes in great variety of pretty and useful forms, and aluminum has the brilliancy of silver, and needs but little care to be kept bright and attractive. As a basis for the toilet-table, on which to display these dainty appointments.

• DIY Dollhouse Vanity Accessories by Little Gretchen's Workshop 
• Dollhouse Tutorial for a Vanity by Akamerukawaii - made with popsicle sticks and wood glue
• Froggy makes a PUR x Barbie Vanity and An "Antique Version" using Dollar Tree supplies here.
• See my craft version of a small stuffed chair for a vanity table here.
  

       White muslin, plain or dotted, a few scraps of the cheaper quality of lace, and the introduction of a few loops and ribbons of the favorite color, with a fair proportion of the requisite taste, which is seldom missing in a refined nature, will do the rest at very small expense. We will not attempt here a detailed description as to what to do, or how it should be done, as conditions and circumstances differ widely with the individual, but will simply offer a few suggestions as a basis on which to work.
       Glue securely to the back of the table a small craft stick; at the center of this glue a second craft stick vertically so that the muslin in pleats may be attached at the top, perfectly flat and spreading out wider at the bottom, to each extreme end of the table-back, extending down in fan shape. This will give a background to add over-drapery and flounces at discretion. In the centre of this, at a convenient height, hang a small mirror, the frame of which may be covered with plush of a dainty color. Of course, the body of the table should be covered with flounced lace to the floor, and the table-top itself covered with a plush mat of the same dainty color as the frame.
       This should exactly cover the top, and be edged with a neat colored cord-binding, with tassels to match at the corners, or a full lace flounce finished at the corners with bright ribbons. Ribbons of the same color should hold in place the over-drapery of the upper part, as the taste of the fair owner shall dictate. These simple suggestions, and a fair amount of good taste, and skill in arranging, should offer opportunity for very pleasing results, and, when all is completed, the dainty appointments of the toilet artistically and neatly arranged in their places, "my lady doll" has something that has cost her but a comparatively small amount of money, and her reward for the time' and ingenuity expended will be derived from the satisfaction of possession.

Left, for a guest-room in cretonne and stenciling.
Right, quaint and pretty for a country-dollhouse room.

• Mini Dressing table with matchbox from Craftube for Barbie and another version here too for a smaller doll!
• Miniature Dressing Table from NKCreationNoorjahan
• Matchbox dressing table design from Mukta Art & Craft
• Fold a vanity table with Craft with Sahar

How to make boxy bunk beds for your dolls?

Left, the 3 bunk beds made using a discarded shoebox fit little dolls like Skipper, Stacie and 
Chelsea dolls. Barbie would fit in these beds too but I designed them to be included in a child
bedroom for our dolls. Right, the bunk beds are outfitted with mattress, sheets, pillows.

       The most wonderful thing about this doll bedroom craft is that it may look so very unique based upon who is crafting it. The possibilities are endless and all you really need is a box! In this version of a bunk bed craft I chose to use a shoebox. 

       You might say that crafting doll furniture using shoeboxes is one of the great American child pastimes. I rarely meet a little one who hasn't made something using a shoebox. Either he or she has made a diorama in school, a postbox for Valentines or a bed for their dolls using this common material. Shoebox crafts are as common to childhood as Playdough or lemonade.

       My modern version of this set of bunk beds includes ''holds'' for climbing into the beds instead of old-fashioned ladders and what American kid wouldn't prefer these? 

Basic supplies include a cardboard box and fabrics.

Supply List:

• Sculpey for "holds''
• decorative scrapbook papers
• white school glue
• cardboard box 
• cotton batting
• fabric for bed linens (felt, flannels etc...)
• matching threads
• additional scrap cardboard
• acrylic paints (for details)
• lattice flower garden woodcuts (optional, Dollar General Store)
• hot glue
• Mod Podge

Left the holds shaped using Sculpey oven-bake clay. Center and Right, the holds are hot-glued
to the places where ladders would ordinarily be included for the dolls to climb into bed. But,
our dolls are interested in rock climbing so I chose to use these interesting brackets instead.

 

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Remove the lid from a shoebox, turn it on it's side and now you have the perfect beginning of a doll's bunk bed. I chose to make my version here for three dolls. This meant that I would need to measure the length of my shoebox minus one inch, divide that number in half and glue an additional piece of cardboard to fit neatly into the center of the interior of my shoebox. This will give our family dolls three levels for beds: one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom.
2. The "minus one inch'' is the allowance I made for the lowest bed's platform at the bottom of the shoebox. I raised the lowest bed off of the very bottom of the shoebox so that the doll would not be laying directly on the floor. Cut a strip of cardboard measuring one inch wide and glue this into the box so that an additional cardboard bed may rest on top of this raised platform. 
3. I cut additional narrow strips of cardboard to glue just beneath the second center ''bunk bed" in order to lend it support while it dried and extra strength during play.
4. The top of the shoebox is the final and third bunk bed. For this bed you will need to cut safety rails so that dolly won't roll out of bed in the night and break her arm or something worse... My rails for the third bunk on top were cut from cardboard. I did not need to cut railing to wrap around the entire bed; I only cut enough for the one side facing out from our dollhouse walls. 
5. I built a shallow two inch wall to wrap around one end and the back wall of the top bunk and left one side at the end of the bunk beds open so that a doll could climb up one end into the top bunk. Normally this would be where a real tri-level bunk bed would include it's longest ladder. However this is where I hot glued my Sculpey holds onto the side of the doll bed for dolls to climb instead of a ladder. 
6. Hand sculpt small abstract shapes to mimic "holds" for the dolls. Bake these according to the directions on the side of the box, apply when cool with a hot glue gun on the flat side, paint with acrylics and seal with Mod Podge.
7. Now comes the fun and easy part of the craft, decoupage all of the walls using decorative papers and white school glue or Mod Podge. Do not use large quantities of glue all at once or the box may become warped. The key here is to do this process slowly, allowing the glue to dry on different levels of application before adding more paper. Take your time!
8. I glued in an additional bedrail to the edges of my doll's second bunk (center bunk) last. i had to build a shallow wall on the edge measuring 1/2 inch wide to give support to this flower bed rail cut from balsa wood. I glued the wooden rail to the front of the cardboard support. This added detail echoed the floral wall prints on the interiors of the first and second bunk walls. 
9. After these rails dried, I painted them using acrylics.
10. The second half of this craft involves to sewing for our bunk beds bedding. I made these doll linens by hand but you may choose to use a sewing machine with parental guidance if you are learning to sew on it. This is an excellent project for 5th and 6th graders to make and learn simple sewing techniques. First, measure the lengths and sides of each bed platform to sew mattresses. Add a 1/4 inch seams to all sides before cutting mattress fabric. If learnin to sew, you may wish to make those seams 1/2 inch instead.
11. With right sides together, sew a straight stitch around the two longest lengths plus one end only , leaving one of the shorter ends open for stuffing the mattress with cotton batting, after you have turned the right sides out and created a pocket. Use very little stuffing for the mattresses so that by the time you have made bed pillows and blankets there is still room to slide the doll into bed!
12. The pillows are made in the same way except much smaller. 
13. Cut blankets from no fray fabrics like felt, flannel so that younger students may complete the bed linens quicker.

Above, I sewed simple canvas mattresses to fit into each bunk bed and then covered them with
flannel striped fabric for doll sheets. Each bunk was also given a sleeping pillow with a pillow 
case and decorative pillows too! Every interior wall was covered in floral papers.

The outside of the boxy bunks was decoupaged using faux wooden paper, white-washed in surface
design for a 'country look." The holds were also painted bright colors: teal green, hot pink, yellow
and orange, just as these are in real life.

Each doll is tucked in snug for a good night's sleep. Center, see the railing is made using lattice
flower bed brackets cut from balsa wood. I purchased these from a Dollar General and painted 
them to match the printed, white-wash wood siding. Right, there are simpler plain rails glued to
the highest bunk bed. 

See Kids Climb Around The House:

• Easy DIY Indoor Kid's Climbing Wall
• How to make a climbing wall in a kid's room...
• A painted climbing wall in the house 
• Climbing wall bunk beds - how to assemble these in real life!
• Playroom with rock climbing wall

How to Craft a Sleigh Bed for Barbie

Two dolls, a fashionista and a Ken relax while watching a baby, toddler and their beagle.

       Here is a lovely Queen sized bed for Barbie and Ken to share  once they have decided to settle down, marry and have a family of their own. For their master suite I will design a cozy bedroom that includes all of the comforts Barbie has grown accustomed to in her past dream homes. But this home will include a new husband, baby, and other children with pets.

The bedding for this doll bed is made from cotton prints in purple and blue. The through blanket
 was upcycled from an old purple fuzzy scarf.

View of sleigh bed construction using a box and additional 
scrap cardboard and dowel rods.

       To make this queen sized Barbie bed I cut identical cardboard pieces for the sides to glue onto either side of a box measuring 12" x 9" inches. The sleigh shaped head and foot boards add more length to the bed for the doll. As you can clearly see in the photographs, sturdy dowel rods glued securely between these cardboard pieces are used to hold up the delicately shaped cardboard pieces. 

       The next step is to attach cardboard to the inside head and foot boards. This is done by applying a generous amount of glue along the edges of the cardboard sides pieces. With masking tape, secure a length of light weight cardboard up, over and down to the bottom edges of the bed to close in the sleigh shaped head and foot boards. Remove the masking tape after the glue has hardened completely. Then sand down the edges if this is needed. I then decoupaged the entire sleigh bed using brown paper bag paper and more white school glue. 

       To make the mattress, I decoupaged the box part of the bed's mattress using a decorative ivory paper that reminded me of a mattress. Now all I will need to do to finish the bed is decoupage the faux wooden parts with printed wood papers and then sew the bedding. This is a bit less time consuming because the mattress in this bed design is the box. It won't be necessary for me to cut it out from foam and cover it with fabric in other words.

Above you can see how I braced the interior of the sleigh bed cardboard sides with a wooden
dowell rod. 

Left, the mattress is embossed paper decoupaged on top of the box. Center, a small Sculpey
detail featured on the end of a sleigh bed headboard. Right, underneath the bed you can still
see the box that I started with.

Left, is the view of the finished bed taken from the footboard side. Right, is a sideview of my
doll's sleigh bed with finished faux wood decoupage.

More Doll Bed DIYs:

• Craft an old-fashioned shoe box bed for Barbie with ''carved'' bumble bees in the headboard and a kerchief bed spread
• Craft a Heavenly heart-shaped bed for a smaller doll...

Do It Yourself: Doll Crate Closet

Left, the curtains are pulled back so that our dolls may easily hang up their clothes and store
their shoes on the top shelf. Right, here you see the curtains pulled shut to keep
doll clothes dust free!

 

       This version of a doll's clothing storage was built using a recycled wine crate that I found discarded by the side of the road. It looked clean and adaptable and was just the right size for the following doll closet craft. Alternatively, one could make the same craft using a sturdy cardboard box if there is no wooden variety available, of course...

• See how I updated a wooden doll storage trunk for Barbies here

 Supply List:

• old recycled wood box (ours was formerly a wine crate)
• handful of screws and nails
• acrylic paints (whatever colors you like)
• an old mirror
• dowel rod
• masking tape
• wood glue
• round wooden drawer knobs
• extra scrap wood for shelf at top
• decorative fabric for seat cushion
• decorative fabric for curtains

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. The first step is to acquire an old wooden crate or box. Often these once were kept to store wine bottles or ship fruit in...
2. Next, decide if your doll's closet will be vertical or horizontal and shape. If you have a doll hanger on hand, it is best to see how this will fit inside the box. Is there enough room for the clothing on a hanger to dangle free from touching the sides of the box? 
3. Sand the wooden box enough to smooth away edges with splintering wood.
4. Paint the box with acrylics or spray paints, whichever you may have on hand. I chose to "white-wash" our doll's closet using very little paint. I happen to prefer wooden furniture with a bit of patina. But, you will have your own preferences for this project that may look very different.
5. I measured the interior of our wooden doll closet to fit it for a single shelf at the top. One this shelf I will store doll handbags, shoes and hats possibly.
6. Insert the wooden shelf with a bit of glue and also firmly attach it with carpentry nails. I hammered these through the outside walls into the edges of my shelf on the inside. 
7. Measure beneath the shelf enough room to insert a dowel rod for hanging your doll's wardrobe. Attach the dowel with nails and glue both combined as you did the shelf. 
8. Paint the entire interior a solid color; I chose a reddish wine color.
9. Attach the dresser drawer knobs to the bottom of the doll closet if it needs to stand a bit taller. 
10. I chose to glue on a mirror for our dolls to the back side of the closet. 
11. After the glue dries, use masking tape to seal the edges of the mirror.
12. Then use faux wood paper to decoupage around these same mirror edges again thereby firmly attaching the mirror and preventing the edges of it from cutting through skin during play.
13. I then chose to make a cushion for the interior of our doll's closet by cutting a piece of foam and upholstering over it with hot pink fabric.
14. To make curtains for the closet door, simply measure from the top to the bottom of the opening. Add an additional inch all around to the panels for neatly finishing the edges. 
15. Hot glue these two panels side by side around the top only and firmly press the edges with your fingertips as you go.
16. Attach a decorative cord in a loop on either side of the closet for holding the fabric curtains open whenever your doll may prefer to look inside her wardrobe to plan her next outfit!

Left, I white-washed the old wine crate with acrylics to give the surface of the wood some patina. 
Center, you can still see the original stamp/carving on the surface of the wood through the white-
wash. Right, at the bottom I attached four drawer pulls to give the closet a bit more height.

Left, I painted the interior of the cabinet a burgundy color along with the shelf and dowel rod.
Right, here you can see that I attached a mirror with wood glue and masking tape. Later I will
decoupage around the mirror with faux wood paper.

Left, the details of a cushion insert, covered with hot pink brocade. shoes and bag are easy to 
access for a doll "on the go..." Center, the red cord holds back the printed curtains.
Right, our doll looks in the finished mirror to make sure her hair is neat and her dress is pretty.

Needlepoint Pillows for Your American Girl's Doll House

       Needlepoint is a type of canvas work, a form of counted thread embroidery in which yarn is stitched through a stiff open weave canvas. Traditionally needlepoint designs completely cover the canvas. Although needlepoint may be worked in a variety of stitches, many needlepoint designs use only a simple tent stitch and rely upon color changes in the yarn to construct the pattern. Needlepoint is the oldest form of canvas work.
       The degree of detail in needlepoint depends on the thread count of the underlying mesh fabric. Due to the inherent lack of suppleness of needlepoint, common uses include eyeglass cases, holiday ornaments, pillows, purses, upholstery, and wall hangings.

Worked in red, brown and blue threads, insect,
 bug, butterfly, pattern, template, may be used
 needlepoint, cross stitch, embroidery

A galloping horse, grassy pasture, watercolor,
a bay with black points, this design was
graphed in 1800!

More Needlepoint Designs:

• DIY a doll sized needlepoint and hoop...
• Tiny rose needlepoint pillows for a doll bed
• A "Forget-Me-Not" Traditional Rag Doll Challenge - needlework on an apron

DIY A Vanity Chair for Barbie

The finished vanity chair.

       Generally speaking, vanity chairs or stools do not have arms attached and should be neatly tucked under or very close to a vanity table when not in use. The project here for making a vanity chair is a very old-fashioned one.

        Toy manufactures now often 'suggest' a printed vanity on the walls of dollhouses. Buy when it is produced for a doll to sit in, the vanity table and chair are usually made from plastic. 

       I've made a vanity chair here for our family's dollhouse using recycled materials - discarded cardboard and a velvet blouse that was no longer fit for wearing. I prefer the soft textures and unique quaintness found in handmade doll furnishings. 

Supply List:

• bread crumb box measuring approximately 3 1/2 inches across (The size of a barbie doll's chair seat.)
• masking tape
• foam for upholstery
• tacky white glue
• four matching buttons
• long needle 
• dental floss
• velvet or some other upholstery fabric 
• hot glue gun and glue 

Photographs of Step-by-Step Process:

Pictured above is an example of "how" the bread crumbs
 box is cut to craft a vanity chair for Barbie.

        First, remove the label and clean out the recycled tube container. I chose to use a bread crumb container because it best fit our smaller Barbie and Fashionista dolls. The circumference of this tube is 3 1/2 inches for the resulting seat and this is the size needed for our standard play dolls. 

       Cut a tall arch for the back of the chair's seat. Measure from the bottom up approximately 1 1/2 inches for the seat "legs" and bottom. The height of the seat will be increased slightly by a foam cushion. Use the plastic lid to cover the seat cushion's hole. Tape it down

Left and Right you can see how the upholstery foam is measured against the cardboard tube.

 

      Cut the foam to fit the front cushion and seat bottom. This may be roughly cut; it will not ultimately show after the chair is finished.

       Cut a cushion cover for the seat. Stuff it with the foam and stitch the openings shut. Stitch on braid or lace trimmings if you desire. Set the seat cushion aside while you proceed to tuft the front of the chair.

 

Left, the holes are pierced into the cardboard. Center the dental floss is sewn with the buttons into
 the front side of the chair through the backside  to make tufts. Right the tufts on the front are shown.

 

       Pole holes into the backside of the chair where you would like to create tufts for the back, see the photo above to understand where I have placed these. Heat up the glue gun, cut a rough size piece of fabrid from the upholstery of choice to wrap the tufted front of the chair. Glue this on the backside covering the front cushion. See photo above. 

       To sew the tufts, thread the needle with dental floss and then sew it through the buttons and into covered foam cushion all the way to the back side of the chair through the precut holes. Do this for each button looping the floss from back to front and front to back. Use masking tape to hold the floss in place at the back side of the chair. 

The back covering of the chair is now ready to be glued  onto the back to cover up the
wrapping and tufting. You will need a hot glue gun and glue for this.

       To finish the upholstered chair, cover a backside panel that has been cut to the exact same measurement of the front from a separate piece of cardboard with the same fabric. Glue fabric to this piece around the edges and to the inside face where the fabric ends will not be seen. Now use hot glue gun to adhere the back finished panel to cover the backside of the chair. Glue on the seat cushion and cut and finish the lengths of a chair duster to hide the bottom half of the tube. 

       If you wish, you could glue on three or four beads to the very bottom of the chair for legs. But, I have not yet elected to do this.

Doll comparison to size of this finished vanity chair.

        Above you can see the finished chair for our eleven inch doll's vanity table. See how her size is compared with the final chair. This vanity chair is slightly smaller than a ordinary side chair used to couple with a sofa. It also has no arm rests. If I chose to, I could make a similar chair with arms and feet to go with a Barbie sized couch. Maybe I will post something like this in the future and use a fabric that will lend itself to a tighter, more tailored appearance. 

Craft a Shoebox Bed for Barbie

A classic shoe box just the perfect size for our Fashionista. It has a faux, carved wooden headboard.

        Simple supplies may be manipulated to look more elaborate than they actually are. This shoebox bed craft for a doll is a very old-fashioned craft. It has been made by children for over 100 years! Although the dolls have changed over time, I can still recall making a bed like this one and tucking in a Raggedy Ann between it's gingham sheets as a young child! 

An eleven inch doll stands beside the shoe box bed.
Go here to see a shoebox bathtub...

Supply List:

• one shoebox for 10", 11" or 12" doll
• scrapbook paper and or wrapping paper
• white school glue
• scrap lace for bed duster
• hot glue gun and hot glue
• masking tape
• scrap cardboard
• Sculpey oven-bake clay (optional)
• acrylic paints, two browns (for headboard)
• kerchief or scrap fabrics for bedding
• cotton batting to stuff a pillow
• cotton sheet batting (optional) for doll quilt
• lace and other notions (optional)
• one chenille stem (to wire the headboard onto bed)
• wooden dowels and beads (optional)
• Mod Podge

How to Craft The Shoebox Bed:

Left, is my wrapped shoebox. The paper on the lid looks like a blue-checkered gingham sheet. 
The blue plaid wrapping below won't show through much, once I have glued on the dust ruffle.
Right, is the beginning of my doll bed's headboard. The cardboard cut-outs have been glued
together and then pressed down with heavy books to keep the construction from warping. See
also that I have already hammered the two holes on each end of the headboard and have wrapped
a chenille stem through these holes to show you how this will look. You could use a different 
wire or ribbon to hold the headboard in place if you want.

        To make this old-fashioned craft for your 10-12 inch dolls, you will need one clean, sturdy shoebox. Next, wrap the lid and the bottom of the box separately, using the white school glue to adhere the decorative papers down permanently. The inside of the box may be used to store the bedding for your doll when it is not being played with. 

       Measure one of the narrow ends of the shoebox to cut a headboard pattern to fit, from the scrap cardboard. You can see in the photos that I gave my doll's headboard an arch. This headboard example measures nearly nine inches tall. I traced around my paper template for the headboard six times on scrap cardboard and then glued all six pieces together. Apply pressure onto the cardboard using a stack of books white the white glue dries. This will keep your headboard from warping.

       Once the cardboard has dried, wrap it with masking tape. Don't forget to wrap the edges as well. Prop the headboard against your shoebox end and mark where you will make the two holes near to the center of the shoebox, side by side. This is where you will thread a chenille stem wire through the inside of the box to hold the headboard in place.

       Make these two holes with a hammer and nail. See the photo just below, right.

Left, See the headboard height compared to the shoebox length visually. It is very tall so that when
the bed is made the faux carving that I add to it will still be seen above the doll's pillow and bedding.
Right, see the chenille stem sticking through the two holes of the headboard inside of the shoebox.
These ends are twisted together to hold it in place snuggly against the doll mattresses. 

        My version of this shoebox doll bed is made with the box part facing up and the lid fits on top neatly. Not all shoebox beds are made in this way; but I prefer it so that the bedding maybe stored inside of the plaything when not in use.

Left, see that I have hot glued a double layer of eyelet lace around three sides of my shoebox. 
Right, now you can see what the faux "duster" looks like with the box-top mattress in place.

        When hot gluing the lacy duster around the bottom of the box, make sure that it touches the floor and that you don't wrap it around the end where the headboard is wired to the shoebox. Real bed dusters do not wrap around the end where headboards or footboards are used on beds either! This omission insures that the dust ruffles will hang neatly and not bunch up where they are not seen. Lace can also be expensive, as well, and you don't want to glue it where it is not necessary.

Left, the oven-bake clay, is glued onto the face of the headboard above the pillow placement. Get
your design up near the top so that it will show once the bed is made. I used a molded set of bumble
bees and a bee hive for my version of this "carved maple headboard." Right, you can see that I 
added wooden dowels to each side of the headboard and beads on top to mimic the antique
headboards that were once popular in the Victorian era. 

      

 

Left, pillow case with embroidered kerchief. Right, a fashionista propped up in the bed.

        To decorate my doll's headboard, I pressed Sculpey clay into a mold of both a bee hive and three different sizes of honey bees. You may skip this step if you haven't a mold for it. Or you may choose a different mold with any theme you like for your own version of this doll bed. 

       Bake the clay ornaments according to the directions given on the clay wrapping. Let the finished clay cool completely and then glue your carved looking pieces onto the front of the headboard. After these have dried on, you will be ready to add more decorative elements like: posters and bead finials to either side of the bed headboard. This is optional decoration however. 

       Now paint the headboard with a dark brown acrylic and let everything dry. Finally, use a lighter brown to highlight the clay design just a bit, with dry bristles. This will make the clay ornaments look as though they have been carved into the wood! Apply clear Mod Podge to seal.

The bedding for our shoebox bed is made using antique kerchiefs and ticking. Blue roses, pink
violets and white flowers are featured in the printed fabric; embroidery includes lavender ribbon
and violets twisted into wreaths.

The bed duster and spread both trimmed with old-fashioned white lace.

 

       To sew the pillow, cut two rectangles of fabric measuring 7"x 41/2", place right sides together and  straight stitch around three sides. Turn the pillow right sides out and stuff it with a bit of cotton batting. Then whip stitch the open ends together. If your are making a wider bed than our standard 6" x 11 1/2" version, you may wish to make two pillows. 

       To sew a bedspread similar to ours, you will need to acquire an old kerchief. Sew it together with a backing of fabric using the same methods for the pillows. After turning the little bedspread right sides out, stuff the pocket with a cotton batting sheet and whip stitch the opening together. Trim the bedding with lace if you like. I also covered our doll's bed pillow with a old-fashioned pillow case made from another embroidered kerchief. This bed looks like something like the antique furnishings inside of my grandmother's bedrooms from my childhood long ago...

 

Above you can see that the bedding and doll fit inside of the shoebox with the lid on top for 
easy storage. 

 

Left, our doll stands next to the bed, handcrafted just for her. Right, the doll lying down.

Template for a Doll's Cradle

       Below is a doll's cradle template easy for a student learning to work with basic carpentry equipment at school or at home. Patterns for the head and foot of the cradle are given in half sections, actual size. The floor may be a solid piece, or slats may be set in, supported by a strip glued along each side. 

Toys that a child can make with the right equipment.

Build a Simple Wooden Doll Chest

       Nearly all little girls like to play with dolls, and we can think of no more delightful Christmas gift for Sister than a chest in which to keep doll clothes. This simple plan by Harold E. Kellogg will fit nicely at the foot of an 18" doll's bed.  

More Doll Chests:

• How to build a tiny doll Closet by DIY Builds
• Assembling a cardboard doll trunk by missysimaginings
• How to build a closet for doll clothes by At Charlotte's House

Plans for A Sturdy 18" Doll Bed

        This bed was designed for large dolls where strength, simplicity and neatness is especially desired. The ends are glued up first; then the sides may be fastened together with the bottom slats. As soon as the glue is dry, the ends and sides are fastened together with 3" No. 12 blued screws. 

       Any soft wood, such as pine or cypress, is very satisfactory material to use; the more skillful woodworker would make the bed of oak. 

• I have another plan here for a doll bed with rail headboard and footboard if you prefer. It comes with measurements as well.

Plank Doll Bed Design

Click directly on the doll bed plans to download the larges size available.