The Cradle shown here and with details, is made using a berry-box with a wood chip basket hood. Open the side of the box that has the lapped ends, and fold down and out the doubled pieces (shown below). Then set the box inside of the basket, with the opened side pieces against the basket sides, and sew securely to the basket with wax twine. In figure 689 the rockers A and the upright supports for attaching them B. Make the rockers 2 inches longer than the width of the cradle, and cut a slot in the lower end of the uprights B just wide enough to receive their ends. Figure 687 show how the uprights should be stitched to the sides of the cradle, and how the rockers should be held in the slots by loops of twine fastened to the upright ends and passed around the rocker ends.
Description of Coloring Page: Two little girls their doll's clothing the old fashioned way..., rag doll, wash barrel, scrubbing with a wash board, warm water and soap, old times
Don't forget to drag the png. or jpg into a Word Document and enlarge the image
as much as possible before printing it folks. If you have a question
about this coloring page, just type into the comment box located
directly below this post and I'll try to get back to you as soon as I
can.
The following photos were submitted to a contest for playhouses built by fathers in 1908. Included below are also the winning floor plans for the first prize winner and descriptions of how the charming structures were built from recycled materials.
A child's playhouse built from an old piano crate.
This is the second-prize playhouse built almost entirely from a baby-grand piano box at minimal cost, not including labor. For a foundation the box was placed on five brick piers, each nine inches high. The lid was raised for a ceiling and supported at the inside corners by two-by-four-inch pieces. Above the piano box the gables are of narrow ceiling lumber, and the roof is of rough lumber covered with roofing paper. There is one room inside six feet by seven foot, and the ceiling is five ft. high. The porch measures three ft. two inches by seven ft. Boards painted red hide the foundation piers, and the rest of the house has two coats of white paint. The little girls on the porch live in Iowa and spend many happy hours in this playhouse.
This playhouse comes with real wooden logs and a chimney!
A little girl in Kentucky was the proud possessor of this pretty log-cabin playhouse. Both the house and chimney were built of unbarked willow logs spiked together at the corners; the chimney was lined with firebrick. There was one room, seven ft. by nine, and the height measured five ft. The walls inside were ceiled with five-eigths-inch pine. An old-fashioned fireplace and mantle, just like the "grown-ups" have, made the room snug and homelike. The door was a wooden latch which was "always out" to all the children of the neighborhood who are well-behaved. This cabin was called by it's little owner "a Daniel Boone cabin," but it seems hardly likely that Daniel Boone ever lived in anything quite as nice as this.
A little girl plays outdoors with her dolls and house in 1908. There are little doll chairs at the front door.
This six-year-old Ohio girl was such a fine little housekeeper because her playhouse was always neat and clean for visitors. Originally the house was just a large box in which printing paper had been packed. A carpenter was hired and in a very short time he transformed the box into a perfect little house. All he did was put on a shingle roof, cut two windows, a door and cover the joints with strips of wood to make the floor. The dimensions are: six ft. tall walls and the length and width of the whole playhouse are four ft.
Number 4., just right, was the first-prize winner of the child's playhouse competition. It was owned by a little girl in Minnesota city. Some of her friends may have recognized her standing on the porch with her family of dolls. The house was originally an old woodshed restored into something for a child to play inside. All of this restoration was done by her father who used scrap lumber found inside of his studio.
The photo of the interior shows the living room looking toward the dining room and kitchen. The mantel is built of old crating and ten ft. of new moulding; the carving above is a scrap of ornamental steel ceiling plate; and the pilasters are made from a table-leg sawed length-wise. The combination grate and cook-stove consists of a grotesque ceiling plate, on the living room side, which was outlined to fit this space and cut through the teeth for draft openings. This was bolted to the open side of a large tin cracker box, in the top of which two holes were cut - one for a small stove-pipe and the other for a six-inch stove-lid through which the pretend "fire" was fed. The mantel being nailed against the one-inch partition naturally brought the fire-box in the kitchen, making the cutest cook-stove imaginable. Over the rough boards of the inside old carpet-paper was tacked, which provided a smooth surface for the wallpaper. In the words of the little owner of this playhouse "it is so nice to have a real stove to cook on and a real floor to scrub."
The order of awards for the contest:
Number (4.) first place prize. Comes with a floor plan.
Number (1.) the piano box transformed, second place prize.
Number (6.) the playhouse from the city of Illinois, third place prize.
Number (2.) cabin from Kentucky, fourth place prize.
Swings attached to the outer roof of the children's playhouse in Canada.
Away up in Canada, on the plains of Northern Alberta, was this playhouse built entirely of logs and covered with a sod roof. The back measured 12 ft long, and each end was seven ft. wide, the front wing six ft. by seven. Inside there was one large room that was divided into a dining space, sitting room and kitchen. From the four little owners of this playhouse came a cordial invitation, "Just call on us and we will make you a cup of black tea, served with Canadian biscuits which we call 'crackers!'
The playhouse above submitted from the city of Illinois won third prize! The alcove and porch roof were built using dry-goods boxes. The windows were of inexpensive picture frames.
This submission was called the "butternut cottage." This was because it was shaded by a butternut tree that kept it cool in summer. There was a garden for the children to maintain outside next to the playhouse. It was owned by a family from Pennsylvania.
Another couple of small mistresses from Pennsylvania submitted a playhouse known as the Teddy Bear house. It came with a quaint front porch perfect for tea parties.
An amazing Aunt transforms her old shed into a playhouse.
Our sample Quaker Oats canister cradle as seen from above.
Sometimes this craft does not include rockers when you find it elsewhere on the web. The oats can will rock without the additional rockers but it will also roll upside down and deposit whatever doll that lies in it onto the floor! So, I chose to include a set of rockers (with template) to prevent this from happening along with our updated variation of this favorite old-time cradle craft.
You may need to alter our template slightly in order to get it to fit to the diameter of your own cardboard can because cardboard tube sizes do vary. However, the decoupage layering of paper and glue will strengthen and bond the rockers to the can properly if the glue is given ample time to dry and harden. Parents may choose to allow kids to decorate their own doll's cradle after an adult or teen has assembled its' larger parts to avoid frustrations of younger inexperienced crafters.
Template for Quaker Oat Rocker.
Supply List:
Quaker Oats cardboard can (I used the largest variety measuring 9 1/2" tall
box cutter or Xacto knife (Only adults may use this equipment prior to the craft.)
white school glue
decorative papers (I used plain black construction paper)
a variety of yarns
decorative card stock (optional)
flannel fabric for mattress and blanket
batting to stuff the mattress
needle and matching thread
print my rocker template below.
additional scrap cardboard for the rockers
masking tape
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Cut away an opening in the can using a box cutter or Xacto knife. I cut a 5"x7" opening into a large Quaker Oats can.
Reinforce the can by covering it entirely with masking tape to begin with.
Print and cut out two rockers for the underside of the Quaker Oats can.
Trace around the paper templates several times to double up the thickness of the cardboard you will use for them. I cut two sets of rockers using double thicknesses of cardboard for the version photographed above.
Then glue and tape the rockers directly beneath the cradle opening. Let the cradle dry completely before decoupaging it.
I decoupaged my Quaker Oats can and rockers entirely with black construction paper.
Then I pasted a patterned card stock to the outside areas of the rockers only. This step is optional.
You can decorate this doll cradle's end caps using yarn trims. I chose to repeat the motifs illustrated in the decorative card stock using left over yarn and construction papers from previous crafts. The yarn was glued onto the cradle's surface using white school glue. You may wish to replace this glue with tackier glue instead if you feel a child may have trouble or be impatient with the ordinary glue.
You can also line the doll cradle with a lightly stuffed flannel pillow 5"x7" and a matching flannel blanket just slightly larger. Now your little one can enjoy hours of dramatic doll play and it cost next to nothing to make a baby doll cradle from recycled materials!
Left, I converted a 9 1/2" tall Quaker Oats Can into a dolls cradle. Center, Use masking tape to reinforce structure
of decoupaged cradle before covering with glue and additional scrap papers. Right, to cover corners with paper
neatly, don't forget to clip the edges with scissors into a fringe.
Yarn and decorative card stock applied with white school glue to the Quaker Oats cradle.
Left, I've decoupaged the cradle black and covered the rockers with a colorful card stock. Now I am ready to apply
a yarn pattern. Center, here you can see the pillow-like mattress I made for the inside of the cradle. Right, our baby
doll sleeps snug inside his colorful paper mache cradle.
One of my many painted canvas dolls sits quietly waiting for class to begin.
A good neighbor built this small school desk for my dolls long ago in his woodworking shop. Even though Mr. George passed away more than fifteen years ago, his gift still reminds me of his kind-hearted nature.
Old-fashioned school desk as seen from behind. This is a miniature of the kind of desks once used in American classrooms.
This cradle is made of soft wood and finished with mahogany stain to make is bright and attractive. It fits a twelve inch doll perfectly. However you may change the dimensions to fit any sized doll you wish.
The special feature of this doll cradle is the use of the bevel to lay out the slanting lines on the end pieces.
Order the stock. Plane the end and side pieces to the largest dimensions. Use the compasses to lay out all the curves indicated in the drawing.
Lay out the beam of the bevel on B, set the blade to the line A. Then, with the bevel used the same as a square, draw all the other slanting lines on the head and foot pieces.
Saw to the curved lines with the coping saw and to the slanting line with the back saw.
Fasten side and end pieces together as indicated; then carefully plane the bottom edge of the side pieces square with the bottom of the end pieces.
Nail the bottom to the sides and screw through the bottom to hold the rockers.
Above are the mechanical drawings for a simple wooden doll's cradle.
The finished dust pan painted to look like chalk work.
I purchase a small, carved, wooden dust pan from resale for a dollar. I thought, what a strange little thing? Now that it's painted, it looks adorable in our child sized kitchen downstairs.
First I used a can of black chalk paint to give the dust pan it's first layer of paint. Then I used a white colored pencil to draw the label and outline the flowers.
Next I applied color to the carved flowers using a dry brush technique. Then I sealed the finished paint decoration with a transparent acrylic spray finish.
Adding labels wether permanent or temporary to items in a child's play kitchen helps them develop early reading skills.
Description of Coloring Page: Two little girls sewing and mending while their dolls have tea. This coloring page comes with a verse, color children playing with their dolls
"When Bess gave her Dollies a Tea, said she--
"It's unpolite, when they's Company,
To say you've drinked two cups, you see--
But say you've drinked a couple of tea."
Don't forget to drag the png. or jpg into a Word Document and enlarge the image
as much as possible before printing it folks. If you have a question
about this coloring page, just type into the comment box located
directly below this post and I'll try to get back to you as soon as I
can.
Any child can craft pretend potatoes with very little effort! After your small one has mastered this easy craft, challenge him or her to sculpt something a bit more difficult.
Place fruits and veggies in on a table and have the him touch and explore the organic shapes and textures. Next ask him shape the aluminum foil into more advanced shapes such as carrots or turnips or maybe even a pumpkin.
Before you know it, you'll have plenty of veggies for an entire pretend veggie stand to play with!
Supply List:
aluminum foil
masking tape
brown paper bags
white school glue
Mod Podge optional
stapler
recycled netting from potato bag
Step-by-Step Directions:
Tear off large 12"x12" squares of aluminum foil.
Shape the foil into silver potatoes, you won't need to crush these down so much!
Leave the bumpy parts of the potatoes alone, when these are covered with brown paper, they will look more realistic.
Cover these shapes with masking tape.
Now cover the shapes with white school glue and shredded, brown grocery bags.
Let the pretend potatoes dry over night.
Save the netted bag that comes with your real potatoes at the grocery bag.
Fold, mask and staple some of the printed grocery bags to seal the pretend bag of potatoes inside of their very own netting. (photos of this process below)
Left, Shape foil into potatoes shapes. Middle, cover these with masking tape. Right,
Now cover the shapes with white school glue and shredded, brown grocery bags.
Cut, fold, tape, staple and trim the paper ends of your potato prop.
Cut the top handle of a brown grocery bag off, tape and staple the top end of the potato net into it as shown above.
Pretend burlap bags are stuffed with cotton and used for play
in a children's market stall.
Our family nursery has so many old-world props for grandchildren to play with while learning about Midwestern history and culture. Below are directions for making very simple burlap bags to contain pretend food stuffs like coffee, flour, potatoes and rice. And I have also purchased a coffee grinder at resale for $3.00 to teach the kids how coffee and flour were processed in small amounts prior to the invention of electric grinders.
Burlap is processed from jute or hemp. Before the Civil War, my family farmed hemp in Missouri. Hemp is like the industrial version of jute. Hemp was sometimes used to make bags for storing and transferring all kinds of food product to market. It is most often used now to make rope and durable carpets. Jute, which is a similar plant, was used to make fabric for ticking (a utility fabric). Over time, paper bags, tin cans and foil bags replaced burlap in the shipping and storing of coffee to the general public, because these were much cheaper to manufacture.
Although the early burlap bags were printed in mass manually with the use of a silk screen, our simple process will achieve a similar result with art supplies easily found in every American home.
The coffee grinder in our family nursery is new but it's design
dates back to those burr mills manufactured just after The
Civil War. It is one of many interesting kitchen tools that is
displayed in my old-fashioned, play kitchen.
Supply List:
Off-white burlap fabric, 3/8 yard (Use scraps if you have them instead)
a black permanent Sharpie marker with a wide tip
dental floss
embroidery needle
heavy twine or a red yarn alternative
a plastic bag or tin foil
cotton batting
paper grocery bag with red printing (optional)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Cut the burlap to whatever size you would prefer for this easy sewing craft. Mine are approximately 12" x 6".
Use a sheet of plastic or tin foil to protect whatever drawing surface you wish to work on top of. This is because the weave of burlap is very loose and the permanent ink marker may transfer to the surface beneath the burlap while you are lettering your design.
I drew my letters with a soft number 2 pencil before tracing over these with a black, permanent ink marker.
It's important to use a wide tip marker so that this tip will stand up to the rough surface of the burlap while you press into it.
It is also important to work on top of a off-white colored burlap in order for your ink based lettering to show up well.
I also added a few, small coffee bean graphics to my sample, burlap bag shown above. I also stapled a strip of paper trim to the rice bag version, just to add a bit of color to it.
Sew around the circumference of of each bag several times with a machine straight stitch, leaving a big enough opening to turn the bag right sides out.
Stuff your bags with cotton batting and then use a whip stitch with dental floss to seal them up. This floss is very durable and will keep the loose burlap threads tightly bound together.
Now add a bit of red thread trim using an embroidery needle if you'd prefer.
Burr mills were commonly used in early American kitchens. A burr mill, or burr grinder, is a mill
used to grind hard, small food products between two revolving abrasive
surfaces separated by a distance usually set by the user.
When the two surfaces are set far apart, the resulting ground material
is coarser, and when the two surfaces are set closer together, the
resulting ground material is finer and smaller.Often, the device includes a revolving screw that pushes the food through. It may be powered electrically or manually.
Burr mills do not heat the ground product by friction as much as do blade grinders ("choppers"), and produce particles of a uniform size determined by the separation between the grinding surfaces.
Food burr mills are usually manufactured for a single purpose: coffee beans, dried peppercorns, coarse salt, spices, or poppy seeds, for example. Coffee mills are usually powered by electric motors;
domestic pepper, salt, and spice mills, used to sprinkle a little
seasoning on food, are usually operated manually, sometimes by a battery-powered motor.
Left, The first coffee-grinder patent in the United States was issued to Thomas Bruff, Sr. in 1798.
Right, English and French coffee grinders in the nineteenth century.
The photograph above shows coffee grinders or burr mills kept in a Museum in Wisconsin.
The photo itself was taken in 1873. On the far right you can see a burr mill similar to the one
we have on display in the Grimm nursery.
I paid only ten cents for these little, child sized potholders in an estate sale. Each revealed bright colors after giving them a good scrub. Then, I decided they needed a bit of decoration. So I cut a flower, cherries and strawberry from a bit of felt and appliqued the designs with hand-stitching. With just a few finishing touches (pom poms and seed beads) this project was finished in under an hour.
Left, Vintage print fabric potholders in bold colors: blue, green, yellow and red will look sweet with our kitchen oven in the playroom. Right, an old-fashioned woven potholder made with loops came with the set. It is color coordinated with the quilted potholders.
I cut simple shapes of both a strawberry and cherries for my appliques. Then I cut brown stems and green leaves from felt. After sewing the designs directly onto the tops of my potholders, (using a blanket stitch ) I then attached a few black seed beads to my strawberry to mimic real seeds.
I printed a 1930s flower design from my Christmas blog and cut it out to use for the applique seen above. I used a finer thread to attach the pom poms and seed beads to the center of my design. You obviously don't need to worry about
plastic or furry trims when decorating pretend potholders!
You will need a small round box container for this project. Something tossed our from the grocery store will be fine. I kept a brie cheese container for my pies. The container should be clean and dry, with no food residue.
Cover or mask both open faced "pie" shapes entirely with making tape. Sealing off the top of the pie shells with the crumpled newsprint inside.
Shred the flimsy, paper bag paper into random shapes to apply with glue onto the both halves of our pretend pies. This step strengthens the sculpted forms.
After covering the surfaces of the filled pie shapes thoroughly with the brown paper bag layer, apply a layer of Mod Podge. Let dry.
If you are a beginner, you will start by shaping the blueberry pie shown on my posting here. It has a simple, uniform surface with only a few finger holes on the top to reveal its purple juices after painting.
Shaping the cherry pie with a lattice top may prove to be a bit challenging for beginners. I did not make it with strips of pulp! I shaped the lattice work and pulp balls directly onto the top. Applying more white glue to ensure that the fake cherries stayed in place during the drying time. If you should take up this challenge, do not worry if you need to reattach cherry shapes a second time after letting this pie sculpture dry. (See photos below)
Shape the edges of your pies just as you normally would when sealing the edges of a real pie. You can do this with your finger tips or a plastic fork if you like. ( How to make decorative pie crust. )
Paint the tops of your pies using quick drying acrylic paints. Mix up several variations of browns so that you can apply these randomly as you work. A stencil brush may help the process for those of you who have never painted a surface like this before.
It helps to observe a real blueberry or cherry pie while painting your own. Prepare to get hungry!
After painting the pies let them dry thoroughly in the sunshine.
Apply the acrylic sealer to the tops of your finished pie masterpieces. Let these dry again before serving them up to your doll companions.
Left, You will need a small round box container for this project. Center, The newsprint when wadded will create an uneven surface which is good. Right, Cover or mask both open faced "pie" shapes entirely with making tape.
Shaping the cherry pie with a lattice top may prove to be a bit challenging for beginners.
The ruffled, canvas canopy cover may be either sewn
together or assembled with a hot glue gun.
Cover the top of your market stall with an attractive gathered canopy.
This fun fabric, printed with large veggies, was purchased from IKEA.
I purchased a child's play market stall for the nursery downstairs several years ago. I am now just getting around to setting it up properly. This stall comes with brace work designed to support a fabric canopy. I can't seem to find a picture of it on the internet, so I will need to craft one based upon my own measurements and design.
It is not difficult to construct canopy covers; any adult or older child can take a few measurements and sew a few straight seams to accomplish this project. In fact, you do not need to sew any part of the canopy. If you prefer to use a glue gun, this will suffice as well. I chose to sew my own because I want to switch it out with alternative canopy trims and store it. Sewing something properly always makes the handling of it more practical.
Supply List:
one yard of heavy canvas fabric
scissors
large needle
thick thread
cardboard
glue gun (optional)
Measure across the top of the canopy, both the length and the width. Cut a piece of heavy cardboard to fit the top of the canopy brace work exactly. Cut both top and bottom pieces of your canvas fabric to cover this long narrow piece of cardboard. You can either sew or hot glue this canvas to the cardboard. Trim and tuck under all the edges so that this piece looks clean and professional. My canopy top measured 23 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches.
Now you will need to make the ruffle to attach to the covered fabric cardboard. This may be sewn or attached with hot glue after it has been cut, hemmed and gathered. Measure from the top of your canopy brace downward when determining how long you would prefer your canopy's ruffle to drape. I chose to make a ruffle twelve inches from top to bottom and approximately six feet long. (The included seam allowance)
The length of the fabric must be gathered in order to make the ruffle. You don't need much extra fabric in order to sew a neat ruffle. The circumference around my canopy top at it's widest point measured 67 inches. This is because the braces were built with angles extending out from the sides of the canopy.
The original fabric awning (if there was one) probably looked something like a trapezoid shape. However I chose to sew a ruffled, fabric canopy to compensate for this shape. By adding an additional six inches of fabric to the length of my ruffle I was able to ensure the fabric would cover the widest part of this brace work neatly.
Six inches may not sound like much, but it is plenty of ruffle when using a canvas fabric. Canvas is heavier than cotton and it must be used sparingly in order to make it lay neatly around the edges of a piece of furniture.
Now if you wanted to cover the canopy with a light weight cotton, you could add more than six inches to your ruffle and it would look nice. However, I would not extend the length of a cotton version ruffle more than twelve inches in addition to the exact circumference of my stall's braces.
How to use heat-n-bond ultrahold tape for
finishing fabric edges without sewing.
Before attaching the ruffle to the edge of your covered canopy top, you will need to sew a hem around both the top and bottom of the ruffle. You may use a kind of sewing tape that may be applied with a hot iron if you should choose to avoid any sewing here. I simple ran my fabric through the sewing machine and then ironed the hems flat before gathering the edges with a wide straight stitch across the top edge of my ruffle. Make sure to knot one end of that strong thread so that you can pull the end piece of it to create a gathered ruffle.
Now pin the ruffle into place around the edge of your canopy cardboard. Spread this evenly with slightly more ruffle around each end of the canopy where the braces form the extended top. It is easiest to sew this or hot glue this into place while working directly onto the wooden, canopy brackets. Be careful not to attach the ruffle directly to the braces, only attach the ruffle to the cardboard top! This is not a problem if you are sewing, but glue may cause a bit of trouble if your not careful about how liberally you apply it. Press the fabric canopy using spray starch. Trim off any stray threads.
My pretend preserves are cooling on the window seal. Soon someone small will have a charming,
new addition to her old-fashioned, play pantry.
Any older brother or sister can craft these adorable, homemade jelly or jam jars for a child sized market stall or play kitchen! It's a simple craft that looks like just like real preserves! You can choose to draw pictures of fruit fillings, apply stickers or Mod Podge free, fruit clip art from the web onto the labels I have provided below. The age of your crafter will predetermine whichever steps you decide to take when decorating these labels.
Draw a larger circle using a pencil, onto
the wrong side of your fabric selections.
Cut an additional 1/2 inch margin around
the circle for a proper ruffle if making a
template from the jelly jar itself.
Supply List:
four glass or plastic containers
four acrylic paint colors: blue, purple, red and orange
labels for jellies and jams
stickers of fruit (optional)
Mod Podge
soft paint brush
scissors
pencils, crayons or paint for coloring fruit
calico or gingham cotton fabric (scraps)
rubber bands
Step-by-Step Directions:
Gather your supplies before beginning. You do not need to use glass jars like mine, if you are afraid they might break when handled by little ones roughly. There are many grocery products on the market that come in similar styles and sizes to mine that are made from plastic. I used four glass yogurt jars that look just like old-fashioned jelly jars for this craft.
Clean the jars with warm soap and water; removing any labels from the outside of the jar with a bit of elbow grease, of course.
Squeeze a small amount of paint into each jar and cover the entire surface of the inside of the jars with color. Rotate the jars from side to side until there is a nice even coat of paint. Drain the excess of paint back into the paint containers if possible. Let the paint in each jar harden over night before proceeding to the following steps.
Using a round template/pattern (from a glass or plate or the jar plus 1/2 inch), draw a larger circle using a pencil, onto the wrong side of your fabric selections. Repeat this four times for each jar of jam. Make sure that the circles are larger than the top openings of your pretend jam/jelly jars by at least one half inch. You will need this much fabric to hang over the outer rims all the way around each jar in order to seal them with a rubber band.Mothers and Grandmothers often decorate their home made preserves with similar fabric rounds after canning themselves.
Set these fabric lid covers aside for wrapping the tops of each jar later.
Now print out the labels that I have included for the project below.
You can choose to draw and then color in four separate fruits for each label: grapes, apricots, strawberries, and blue berries. Alternatively, you could use some colorful, fruity stickers to decorate each label before applying them with Mod Podge instead of drawing and coloring the fruits if you wish.
Use the blue berry label for a jar painted with blue acrylic, a strawberry label for a red painted jar, an apricot label for an orange painted jar and finally a purple painted jar for the grape jelly label.
After coloring in or decoupaging each label with stickers, apply Mod Podge to the surface areas of each jar of jam and carefully stick the labels onto the painted jars. Let the surface dry and repeat an application of Mod Podge on top of the labels to protect them from play.
Now secure a fabric round to the top of each jar with a rubber band. (see photo)
Left, Clean the jars with warm soap and water. Right, Let the paint in each jar harden over night before proceeding.
Here I have drawn some free labels for your jam & jelly jars.
I added yellow, calico, fabric lids to my pretend preserves.
